Thoughts #34: Aerin Evening Rose

Evening Rose by Aerin features two varieties of rose, Centifolia and Bulgarian rose. I love the description on the Aerin website – there’s no way I could do it better:

“The pairing of Rose and Cognac are intriguing and unexpected, like the allure of an evening in the city.” – Aerin Evening Rose is vibrant with contrast. Juicy Blackberry and rich Cognac unexpectedly blend with voluptuous Rose Centifolia and Bulgarian Rose Absolute in an intriguing, alluring elixir. Incense, sensuous and luxurious, imparts soft warmth, like a lingering memory of an unforgettable evening.

 Evening Rose also features notes of amber and pepper.

 

Source: Aerin (No copyright infringement intended)

 

It is difficult to describe the first note I smelled, except that I recognize it as the “old lady scent”, but it fades very quickly and I’m left with a clear, honeyed rose. The fragrance is given depth by a dry, smoky incense note, a mildly spicy note, a woodiness and a lightly fruity red wine kind of aroma (without that slight searing sensation). For a brief moment, the fruitiness was played up with the introduction of a slightly tart berry scent. The dry down is filled with soft, smoky amber.

 

Evening Rose was thoroughly delightful and I was pleasantly surprised by the cognac note as it was my first time smelling it in a perfume. The bottle is simple and is given a touch of elegance with a purple stone on its cap, which reflects the romantic ambience the fragrance exudes.

 

Personal note: When I think of this perfume, I imagine a lovely cobblestone street on a cool evening, at or just after sunset, with the soft glow of street lamps.

 

References:

https://www.aerin.com/1400000000005.html#start=1

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Aerin-Lauder/Evening-Rose-19059.html

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Thoughts #33: Dior Forever and Ever

For a while, I had forgotten about Dior’s Forever and Ever EDT until one day, when I decided to peek under the counter where certain fragrances are stowed. The perfume liquid has a glowing rosy color that reflects the rosiness of this fragrance.

 

The fragrance is fresh from the start with a dewy air scent with a hint of citrus, fruit, spice and greenness, which isn’t intensely green but is reminiscent of leaves. A soft, sweet and powdery floral note that smells similar to almond cream gently unfolds along with a sweet, watery and rosy floral scent. There is an underlying spice, which is a little like pepper, then a fresh, succulent and mild greenness. I also seem to identify a light, creamy blend of jasmine and rose. The fragrance settles on a soft, slightly spicy, light, milky, musky, berry-like and slightly tart and fizzy rosy note, which evokes an impression of a rose-flavored ice cream soda. On a side note, Forever and Ever is like a sparkly version of La Colle Noire.

 

Forever and Ever is lovely, tender and delicate but with a bit of a zing. The thing I adore most about it is its rosiness as the slightly fizzy milkiness of the rose was a novel scent to me, having never previously found such a note in fragrances.

This lovely EDT consists of freesia, ivy, jasmine, rosehip, almond blossom, geranium, musk, vanilla and amber.

 

References:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Christian-Dior/Forever-and-Ever-Dior-1245.html

Thoughts #32: Aerin Waterlily

Aerin’s fragrances each highlight a particular ingredient and as you might expect, Waterlily Sun is all about waterlily. I often associate scents with colors and I did imagine the kind of leafy green color similar to that of the stone on the bottle’s cap. Waterlily Sun contains bergamot, green notes, waterlily, jasmine and musk.

 

Source: Aerin (No copyright infringement intended)

 

The top note is a fresh note with a subtle citrus and slight muskiness of bergamot (most times when I smell bergamot, I find it a little musky). A deep but fresh green and slightly soapy note develops and the combination somewhat reminds me of kaffir lime leaf and wet rainforest leaves. The lily is fresh, watery, a little sweet and floral, and is much milder than the top notes. It seemed like there was a lot more fresh, watery greenness compared to the floral component, which was almost imperceptible. Usually, jasmine is prominent on my skin unless it is in tiny quantities but from this fragrance it didn’t develop.

 

Aerin’s Waterlily Sun smells simple as its scent doesn’t vary much over the course of wear and it is also very, very similar to Gucci’s Bloom Acqua di Fiori; they both have a similar fresh green note that dominates all else.

 

 

References:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Aerin-Lauder/Waterlily-Sun-28361.html

https://www.aerin.com/14004528002.html?dwvar_14004528002_variation=2#start=1

4 Scent Favorites (Jun 2018)

I had a whiff of cilantro and decided to base my June scent favorites on herbs, particularly fresh herbs.

 

Thai Basil

Thai basil is minty, green, a little peppery, herbaceous, rich and savory. It is fresher and lighter than but just as delicious as sweet basil.

 

Basil (Sweet)

Basil leaves have a rich yet fresh, meaty and herbaceous aroma. While I love the scent of fresh basil, I have a slight aversion towards basil essential oil, which is richer and much more potent, as it can be nauseating.

 

Rosemary

Like its shade of green, rosemary has a deep and herbaceous scent that is slightly camphoraceous.

 

Cilantro

Cilantro has a very fresh, lemony scent. I wouldn’t say it’s very herbaceous but it has some depth and a meatiness to it. Out of curiosity, I searched what cilantro smelled like and there were numerous results saying that it had a soapy odor, which I don’t really perceive. I wish I could give a solid scientific explanation for it but I couldn’t. If I find one, I will make an update.

Thoughts #31: Paco Rabanne 1 Million Eau de Toilette

There have been a few male-targeted fragrances that I’ve tried, most of which have made me crinkle my nose, because most have a strong pungent spice/herb/something. 1 Million‘s main spice note (cinnamon) is a little subdued in comparison and is the reason I believe it’s the first “male” fragrance I’m not repulsed. My analysis is of the 1 Million Eau de Toilette.

 

The first note I smell is a sweet citrus followed by a brighter, more zingy grapefruit, then a cool, minty, mildly camphoraceous, slightly deep and lightly herbaceous note. The minty note is contrasted by a floral cinnamon, which has a warm, sweet spice aroma. Later, I’m taken aback by the cinnamon-leather blend as it smells a little like sweat. The dry down is soft, including a trace of a light, sweet rose, along with a sweet amber, dry earthiness, spice and wood.

1 Million consists of grapefruit, blood mandarin, mint, rose, cinnamon, spice notes, leather, amber, woody notes and patchouli.

 

Source: Paco Rabanne (No copyright infringement intended)

 

A few times when I tested the fragrance, the cinnamon and leather combination gave me the impression of a light, warm sweaty body odor. However, last time I wore 1 Million, the fragrance reacted differently; there was no sweaty odor, the rose and cinnamon were perfectly blended and the leather was particularly much milder.

 

1 Million‘s soft amber and warm, sweaty cinnamon-leather blend  truly intrigued me and now, I always associate the thought of the fragrance with natural warm body scent. This is a fragrance I think can be worn by whichever gender one identifies with if they like it.

 

 

Reference:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Paco-Rabanne/1-Million-3747.html

Thoughts #30: Guerlain Meteorites

The anticipation was gnawing at me, even though it had only been two months or so since I found out there was a new Guerlain Météorites perfume coming out. 2nd June 2018 marks the day I finally met this pretty pink perfume, dressed in a round bottle with a pastel pink cap and a label featuring the colorful Météorites pearls.

Funnily enough, I’ve never smelled the Météorites powder before.

 

As the perfume is sprayed, I am hit by a fresh and slightly sugary note. Afterwards, a very sweet (and candy-like), fresh, juicy and slightly tart apple appears and it reminds me of freshly-blended apple juice, green apple and Preshafruit’s Granny Smith Apple Juice all at once. The apple remains throughout the fragrance and mixes with floral and powdery elements, as well as a tinge of zingy citrus. At one point, the fragrance is resinous or balmy, and softly musky with a fresh greenness. On paper, there is a very ephemeral sweet, almost clear rose and I think I happened not to smell it when it surfaced on my skin (Boo! However, the rose isn’t the main component so I’m not too upset about it). There is a slightly spicy, slightly cloying fruity-floral note similar to ylang ylang that has a metallic “tang” (it was hard to find an adjective). Depth and richness grow in the sweet powdery apple dry down, which has a hint of woodiness (at least I think it is because it reminded me of cedarwood).

 

Source: Fragrantica (No copyright infringement intended)

 

The fragrance is refreshing, powdery and sweet overall, and the powdery violet-apple combination reminds me of Prada’s Infusion de Mimosa with apple. I preferred it on my skin because the powderiness of the violet is present from start to end and it helps to mellow the sweetness. Ignoring the fact that it doesn’t make me think of face powder while smelling it, Météorites made me feel like I was engulfed in a soft cloud of bliss.

 

 

Reference:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/M-t-orites-Le-Parfum-49587.html

History of Scent

Aromatic materials and products have existed and been in use for many years, with the earliest record dating back to 4500BC. The history of scent is very long so I would have definitely missed out information but I have tried to condense what I had as much as I can. I am also writing the history between 4500BC and the 20th century.

 

4500BC

The earliest record of aromatic products and their uses was in China.

 

3500BC

Scent was used in Egypt for various purposes, such as wrapping significant Egyptian figures like pharaohs in bandages infused with fragrant oils. When archaeologists opened the tombs many centuries later, the oils were found to still be aromatic. Egyptians also burned incense as peace offerings to the deities. One important incense was Kyphi, which contained 16 ingredients including wine, myrrh, honey, raisins, cupress grass, resin, sweet rush and juniper, which was burned every night to ensure that the sun god Ra returned safely the following morning.

 

Greeks not only used perfume for worship, but also for aromatherapy and bathing, and to fragrance themselves.

 

41BC

Cleopatra had a great love for perfume and scented her boat with aromatic oils, which was thought to have been strong enough to be perceivable from miles away and to have helped her seduce the Roman Consul Marc Antony.

 

The Romans were influenced by the Greeks to use perfume, initially for religious occasions and burials, and later, for applying it on themselves, the people around them as well as public and living spaces.

 

 

476-1700AD (Middle Ages & Renaissance Period)

Most of Europe set perfume aside while the rest of the world took great pleasure in it. In India, men and women were anointed with oils during tantric rituals, while Chinese filled their temples with fragrance. Koh-do, which translates to “incense ceremony” from Japanese was developed in Japan to improve mental wellbeing.

The Crusaders were believed to have revived the appeal of perfume in Europe, as they brought home exotic aromatics and rosewater.

 

An Arabian alchemist, physician and philosopher named Avicenna refined and mastered the distillation process.

 

In 1380, the first known alcohol-based perfume known as “Hungary Water” was created for Queen Elisabeth of Hungary and contained aromatics, including rosemary. Her special fragrance, which she wore and drank, was believed to have preserved her youth and prolonged her life (she lived to an impressive 75 years of age).

 

Italy was a key region in the perfume world as Venice was a trading centre for raw perfume materials. The Italians used fragrance wherever they could: to perfume their clothes, to beautify their skin and to block out the stench of canals (or just to leave a fragrant trail) using pomanders.

After the Italian Queen Catherine de Medici married King Henri II of France, she, as well as the heart of the perfume world, moved to France. She took along her personal perfumer, René le Florentin, who created perfumes for her, most notably to scent her gloves. Soon, glove makers in Grasse, then a major producer of leather gloves, used aromatic oils in order to mask the unpleasant odors of treated leather. The perfume industry was dominated by the Maitre-Gantiers (master glovers), for whom a guild was established. One was required to complete a four-year apprenticeship followed by another three years of training before becoming a master perfumer-glover.

 

King Louis XIV, known as ‘the sweetest-smelling king’, loved perfumes; besides scenting his clothes, he filled his palace and fountains with it, and had visitors sprayed with it upon their entrance. The French court earned the name ‘the Perfumed Court’. Louis took his perfume obsession further by commissioning his perfumer, Jean Fargeon, to compose a new fragrance everyday. Fargeon’s son, Jean-Louis, later became Queen Marie Antoinette’s perfumer.

 

18th & 19th Century

Sensual scents, which were fashionable in the 17th century, were replaced by more demure and refined scents like solifloral fragrances in the 18th century.

 

A French perfumer named Jean-Louis Fargeon opened his own business on rue du Roule, and later was recruited by Queen Marie Antoinette to be her personal perfumer.

The French Revolution caused the perfume industry to suffer as it lost many of their clients who were noblemen. However, Napoleon Bonaparte aided the situation with his adoration for Eau de Cologne, which he wore extravagantly and of which he ordered fifty bottles each month from his perfumer, Chardin.

 

During the 19th century, the world of perfumery evolved owing to great advances in perfume technology including the development of new extraction methods and the creation of synthetics. Guerlain’s Jicky and Houbigant’s Fougère Royale were among the first fragrances to contain both naturals and synthetics that emerged towards the end of the 19th century.

 

 

References:

The Perfume Bible by Josephine Fairley and Lorna McKay (2014), p. 46-49

http://perfumesociety.org/discover-perfume/an-introduction/history/the-dawn-of-perfume/

Roja 9-15 on pdf

http://www.nipponkodo.com/en/culture/ceremony.html

https://www.lifeinitaly.com/beauty/de-medici-perfume.asp

http://thisisversaillesmadame.blogspot.sg/2013/04/the-perfumed-court.html

https://www.parfumeurs-createurs.org/gene/main.php?base=473